MAMA MEL’S MEATBALLS

"My friends call me Mama Mel. That’s what happens when cooking is your love language and making feasts is the way you care for your favorite people. These meatballs are one of my go-to dishes for gatherings. No one’s mad at a meatball, especially when they’re this tender and flavorful thanks to ricotta and, my little secret, chopped capers. They also give you the chance to spend time with your guests, since you can simmer them in cozy pomodoro sauce ahead of time and keep them warm until you’re ready to serve. They’re great alongside crusty bread (preferably fried in olive oil and rubbed with garlic), in a sandwich, or as spaghetti and meatballs. In either case, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano on top doesn’t hurt."

POMODORO SAUCE

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
4 large garlic cloves, minced
Diamond Crystal kosher salt
½ bottle full-bodied, dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel
Two 28-ounce cans crushed tomatoes
1 teaspoon white sugar
½ teaspoon red chile flakes, plus more as needed
Finely ground black pepper
A piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (optional)
Two handfuls of fresh basil leaves

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MEATBALLS

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
4 large garlic cloves, minced
Diamond Crystal kosher salt
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, coarsely ground in a mortar or spice grinder
1 tablespoon chopped oregano leaves
1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves
1 pound ground beef (20% fat)
1 pound ground pork (20% fat)
1½ cups whole-milk ricotta
¾ cup panko bread crumbs
One 3½-ounce jar capers (scant ½ cup), finely chopped
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
½ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 teaspoon red chile flakes, or more as needed
¼ teaspoon finely ground black pepper
1 large egg
Canola oil (about 1 quart), for shallow-frying

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Make the pomodoro sauce: Heat a 7- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Add ¼ cup of the olive oil and heat until it shimmers. Add the onion, garlic, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, then cook, stirring occasionally, until it has reduced by about half, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, sugar, chile flakes, several turns of black pepper, Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (if using), and 1 tablespoon salt and let it come to a gentle simmer. Reduce the heat to cook at a gentle simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until it has thickened slightly and concentrated in flavor, about 1 hour. Tear and stir in the basil leaves and the remaining ¼ cup olive oil, and simmer for an additional 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove the Parmigiano-Reggiano rind (discard or snack on it). Season with additional chile flakes, black pepper, and salt to taste. Keep warm while you make the meatballs. (The sauce keeps in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 2 months.)

Form the meatballs: Heat a medium skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the olive oil and heat until it shimmers. Add the onion, garlic, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in the fennel, oregano, and thyme and cook for an additional minute. Transfer to a shallow bowl and refrigerate until fully cooled. In a large mixing bowl, combine the cooled onion mixture, beef, pork, ricotta, panko, capers, Parmigiano-Reggiano, parsley, chile flakes, black pepper, egg, and 1 tablespoon salt. Use your hands to mix until the ingredients are evenly dispersed, no longer than 2 minutes. Use wet hands to roll the meat mixture into roughly 2½-inch balls, transferring them to a tray in a single layer. Cover and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes, to help hold their shape when seared, or up to 24 hours.

Finish the dish: Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Lightly season the meatballs all over with additional salt. Pour 1 inch of canola oil into a large skillet and heat over high heat for 5 minutes. When the oil is ready, the end of a wooden chopstick or wooden spoon submerged in the oil will immediately release little bubbles. Working in batches to avoid crowding, gently add the meatballs to the hot oil one by one, leaving a little space around each one. Cook, flipping once halfway through, until deep brown all over, about 8 minutes per batch. Between batches, use a spider strainer to remove any stray bits from the oil. As they’re done, transfer the meatballs to the simmering sauce, nestling them so they’re mostly submerged. Cover the pot and simmer, gently rotating the meatballs occasionally, for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour. Serve hot.

Adapted with permission from "Cook Like a King" by chef Melissa King.